Rally Car Prep

Rollcage building

This is a major undertaking and will require careful attention to get it right. First step is to check the rule book, but basically if you follow the FIA rules you will pass with any organization.

Check our dedicated Rollcage page

Car preparation/build

Engine, turbo restrictors, air intake, fuel lines: Check our Engine prep page

If you are new to the sport, you don't need to go crazy and a stock engine will most likely be the more reliable option. Eventually get a mild tune but more importantly stay on top of the maintenance schedule and replace fluids and all wear parts in time. If you have a turbo car, you will most likely require a restrictor: Read all the details in the Engine prep section

Brakes: Since most gravel tires are only available in 15", stock STi Brembos have to be replaced with smaller brakes. The go to setup is a 06/07 USDM WRX 4 pot front, 2 pot rear caliper setup and matching rotors. Note that if you have an STi, the rear brake drum for the ebrake is bigger and you'll need special rear rotors (see below).

• • 4 pot/2 pot brake setup: ($1k used on eBay with rotors and pads, also check JDM imports) to fit 15" gravel wheels. Not as pretty but every bit as functional are reman calipers (~$60 a piece Front: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082MKSNSY / Rear: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0839FBJWY). Hardware kits: Front: Centric 117.47021 / Rear: Dynamic Friction 34013019.

  • Rotors: Using a high carbon alloy, especially in the front can help dissipate more heat. You can use the KNS rotor up front (https://bleedingtarmac.com/products/kns-brakes-front-rotor-02-14-subaru-wrx) that is significantly cheaper than a DBA T3 but for the rear you'll need a size that matches your ebrake drum, for the STi we recommend the KNS rear gravel rotor (https://bleedingtarmac.com/collections/brakes/products/kns-brakes-dual-drilled-2-pot-rear-gravel-rotor-04-07-subaru-wrx-sti).  Also check out Frozen Rotors at Rally.build: https://rally.build/collections/frozen-rotors

  • Brake pads: the Hawk HP+ is a pad that offer fantastic cold bite but can be reach its heat limit on heavier car on faster events that require heavy braking. If you are a heavy left foot braker, you might want to consider a more aggressive compound like the DTC-60. We usually use the HP+ in winter and the DTC-60 on faster and grippier events from fall to spring (note DTC-60 only in the front, we keep the HP+ in the back all year around).

  • Consider making wheel scrapers especially for the rear calipers as the clearance between the rim and the caliper will cause sand/gravel to grind down the caliper and make it fail prematurely (see picture on the right below) . We have successfully build scrapers using a metal bracket directly attached to the caliper. Video of how to make wheel scrapers below:

• • Gravel wheels:

    • Team Dynamics Pro Rally wheels (opening between the spokes is tight they tend to not evacuate dirt as well as more open wheels)

    • Evo Corse wheels: http://rally.build/category/products/wheels/

    • Braid: http://www.braidusa.com/comp_flowcast.htm

    • Method MR 501 VT-SPEC (15x7 et48 5x100 for our 04 STIs): you can get discounts from Method if you buy at least 3 sets (consider doing a group buy with someone else)

We also recommend upgrading to ARP long studs (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O065FY) with long open lug nuts (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QHMS5S).

Don't overthink your suspension setup, more caster is better if it's adjustable. 0 toe front/rear makes the car very neutral (on AWD). Don't put too much camber, the tires don't have racing slicks level of grip on gravel. Swaybars is a matter of preference, we just run stock sway bars on our cars and the balance is great with stability at higher speeds. You might find a little bit more grip without sway bars especially on lighter cars but it will be a tradeoff for stability at higher speeds. Experiment and see what works best for you. Below is a cheat sheet from Whiteline to adjust your understeer/oversteer balance:

• • Skids plates: ($390) Primitive full rally armor skid plates front and back to protect  the engine and drivetrain in the most rugged conditions. (check http://get-primitive.com/3-protection-skidplates)

• • Rear subframe reinforcement: The rear subframe on the STi GD chassis is prone to cracking with the loads applied on the rear axle. To prevent the cracking, welding a reinforcement plate to limit the flex around the holes for the diff carrier bolts can go a long way. See the video below:

• • Underbody protection protects other portions of the underbody like the gas tank from rock projections and other road debris. We have successfully used UHMW-PE plastic sheets of 2x4ft (0.125in thick) that you can get on Zoro tools with free shipping. You will need 3 sheets to do one car. In our first iteration we tried to secure the pieces with the strongest zip ties we could find but they get ripped  under impact, the only way to go is to weld either nuts or bolts to hold your pieces of underbody protection. Using zip ties in the rear on moving lateral links is fine. Write your name on the pieces in case you lose them, sweep might bring them back to you if they know who they belong to!

• • Fender liners and wiring harness protection: stock fender liner replacements can be found for cheap (less than $20: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GD40GM) but  in case it gets ripped off the car, it exposes the engine wiring harness to road debris. A simple protection using UHMW-PE (same material used for underbody protection above) can protect your wiring harness.

• • Weld-on strut tower reinforcement ($30): http://rally.build/subaru-impreza-gd-weld-on-strut-top-reinforcement/

• • Hydraulic ebrake: Requires replumbing the brake system and using an aftermarket DCCD controller if you don't have a mechanical center diff. There is a detailed thread on the Facebook Rally page at https://www.facebook.com/groups/1649355358677665/permalink/1663650153914852/?comment_tracking=%7B%22tn%22%3A%22O%22%7D

The stock ebrake will be fine in most situations, just remove the spring and replace the button with one that has a lip (oftentimes called drift button). See video below for the install:

Interior:

• • Rollcage padding (~$20 for 3ft, plan on 15 ft for a good coverage): SFI rated mini-padding where the helmet can reach the bars (http://www.jegs.com/i/Allstar+Performance/049/ALL14112/10002/-1), high density padding for door bars, winshield bar and bottom of a-pillar reinforcement bar (http://www.jegs.com/i/Longacre+Racing/441/65162/10002/-1). You might find cheaper padding from Pegasus (https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=2395)

  • Door cards: We recommend keeping the stock door card and only doing minimal cuts to clear the cage. First the stock door cards don't weigh much and there are not much weight savings to be made there. Second you won't have to relocate door locks or window controls. Third it will provide padding for your elbows and extra storage at the bottom for a tire gauge, paper tower, etc...

• • Seats: Bimarco Phantom (less than $500+shipping each directly from the manufacturer. The seats have to fit you well, make sure you try them before you buy them, there is a lot of difference in terms of size and fit from different brands and models. nCheck our Seat installation page for more details.

  • Seat mounts: Consider having your cage builder weld square tubing for you seat mount. Alternatively you can use a Planted seat mount using the stock mounting points ($140 a side): driver (http://www.amazon.com/Driver-Bracket-Sparco-Recaro-Bride/dp/B0087OYCGO) and passenger (http://www.amazon.com/Passenger-Bracket-Sparco-Recaro-Bride/dp/B0087OYCZA). Check our Seat installation page for more details.

Getting in and out of the car with the cage and racing seats can be very challenging, adding a removeable steering wheel will make your life much easier:

• • Sparco 383 steering wheel ($210): http://www.amazon.com/Sparco-015R383PSN-Suede-Steering-Wheel/dp/B000ECPZAY

  • NRG short hub SRK-100H ($80, https://www.amazon.com/NRG-SRK-100H-Steering-Adapter-Mitsubish/dp/B00HXLY5T6) 

  • NRG 2.5 quick release ($110, http://www.amazon.com/NRG-Steering-Wheel-Quick-Release/dp/B00HK1HX84)

Most regulations ask you to remove the steering column lock (also check kill switch install in the Safety equipment section below). Here is a howto:

Roof scoop: Do yourself a favor and keep all the stock venting/blower/heater in the car, even AC if you can. Rally.Build has a nice Evo style roof scoop with vents to direct air where you need it (https://rally.build/collections/rally-build-fabricated-rally-parts/products/carbon-fiber-evo-style-roof-scoop?variant=6807567269934). If you go for a traditional roof scoop and vent like the one offered by Primitive Racing (https://get-primitive.com/exterior/5-rally-roof-scoopvent.html), it will only blow air below the vent but not on the sides. If you want air to get to the driver and codriver, get a floor vent from the hardware store and glue it to the bottom of the roof scoop vent as show on the picture below. You can also use additional safety wire to secure it in place if needed.

Most of the time, the stock rearview mirror is usually enough, however the vision can be limited on the street with the cage and halo seats which can be an issue in transit or if you use the car for other activities like wheel to wheel racing. You can use a cheap clamp-on panoramic mirror that is very easy to install but add weight to the original mirror mount which might not stay in position during the stages.The rollcage mounted mirrors are more stable but can be tricky to install depending on your roof bars configuration and they will instantly break if they are hit by a helmet (which can happen if you get in/out in a hurry). After breaking multiple rollcage mounted mirrors (and it's a mess to clean the broken glass), I am happier with my clamp-on mirror, never broke one and very reliable on the street (don't really need it on stage anyway!).

• • Clamp-on 17" rearview mirror: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GKAZMW (We do not recommend this option anymore, it becomes a flying object in case of an impact)

  • Rollcage attached mirror: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NN7AOM (Will break if you hit it with a helmet, be careful getting in/out of the car!)

For night stages, interior lights are necessary. While you can get by with a flashlight, the navigator needs a good light to read the notes, find the time card and so on. 

• • Classic map light ($50): http://rally.build/sparco-flexible-map-light/

  • Truck bed lighting kit available at Walmart ($19) as shown on pictures above: can also be used to illuminate rear compartment for spare or tools.

Exterior:

• • Hood pins (~$30): Sparco (http://www.amazon.com/Sparco-01606AA-Blue-Hood-Pin/dp/B001SIDI70) or Rally.Build (http://rally.build/competition-quick-release-steel-hood-pins/). This makes maintenance easier and can prevent the hood from hitting the windshield in case of a hood pin failure.

  • Hood struts ($65): Tein hood struts (https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Bonnet-Hood-Lift-Gas-Strut-Shock-Damper-Kit-Impresa-STi-WRx-GDB-GD-GG-GGA/273038708236)

• Rally Armor UR mud flaps ($135): http://www.amazon.com/Rally-Armor-UR-Mud-Flaps/dp/B004PBAF4Q

  • Decals for driver/codriver names, kill switch, fire extinguisher ($20): http://rallygrafix.myshopify.com/collections/decals-rally-competition

As Imprezas are pretty nose heavy, you can shave some weight by installing a lightweight bumper beam from Oswald Performance (https://www.oswaldperformance.com/products/gd-front-rear-beam-set?variant=1157639532)

Stages at night will be very challenging with just the stock headlight, adding a LED light bar has become a pretty inexpensive solution. Some of them can be mounted directly on the hood or roof of the car but a bumper or light bar is usually a better option:

• • Front bumper/light bar ($270): http://shop.rallyinnovations.com/collections/rally-light-bar is a good mounting option for light bars if you don't want to secure it directly to the hood

  • LED bar: Cheap light bars do work for starters http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KQXKG46 ($37) and wiring harness with waterproof connectors (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QFSAPP6). If you want to wire the LED bar to work with your high beams, you will have to re-wire the relay (see attachment at bottom of page). When you start to pick up speed and need further down the road vision, upgrade to a Diode Dynamic Stage series bar, we are currently using the SS30 combo light (https://www.diodedynamics.com/stage-series-30-white-light-bar.html) attached at the end of the hood. Check the rules for light bar placement and avoid blocking openings for your radiator or cooling system.Old light pods look good but are very pricey and bulky, they also make it harder to operate the hood.

Check the document below if you want to wire your LED bar with your high beams (required if you are running under CARS rules). If you can't see the document, the direct link to access it is: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1q5f4InXo51GgUw4eoSUkR_jkbOEnMOeQ/view?usp=sharing 

Safety equipment:

We are able to store most of the safety equipment in a toolbox that sits on top of the spare tire. The tie down keeps everything secure and in place. Make sure you don't get a cheap box that will be crushed as soon as you ratchet the strap and also make sure objects are secure in the box and are not flying around, causing damage to the box and eventually ending up flying in your trunk!

• • 3 safety triangles ($20): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZ9PHDG

  • First aid kit and spill kit ($100): get it from Rally.Build (https://rally.build/collections/rally-build-fabricated-rally-parts/products/first-aid-spill-kit-combo)

  • Fire extinguisher: if you are on a budget the cheapest is $20, http://www.amazon.com/Kidde-FA110-Purpose-Extinguisher-1A10BC/dp/B00002ND64 but you should consider a metal-refillable one like the Amerex B417 (https://www.amazon.com/Amerex-2-5lb-Chemical-Extinguisher-Bracket/dp/B0089XA6Y0). The cheapest metal bracket is ~$10 (http://www.amazon.com/Kidde-420118-Mounting-Chemical-Extinguishers/dp/B00002NC0N) but if you go racing in Canada you'll be required a double strap with torpedo tabs bracket like this one (https://www.amazon.com/Amerex-817S-Vehicle-Aviation-Bracket/dp/B00F5CKIN2). Note that you can find the Amerex product for much cheaper on eBay usually through Zoro tools.

  • Fire suppression system (~$400): Since June 2021, ARA requires a fire suppression system in addition of the 2x10BC handheld fire extinguishers.  Check our dedicated Fire suppression page for complete info. Cost is $400 for an AFFF based system with manual trigger and can go well over $1k for Novec systems with electric release.
    For a good deal on a Lifeline system, contact Matt Pullen on Facebook messenger, or at 403 708 0148 or Matt@m2motorsport.ca.

• • Kill switch: Required since 2019, this will disconnect the battery power and shut off the engine/fuel pump in case of an emergency. You need at least a 4-pole (2 poles for the battery, 2 poles to kill the engine) but can also run 6 poles (2 extra poles to drain power from alternator to prevent power spike). Wiring diagram and explanations on the dedicated kill switch page. Cost about $30 for a 4 post switch: (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012UW1GAI). Also plan for firewall pass through connectors (https://www.amazon.com/Fastronix-Premium-Current-Terminal-Connectors/dp/B079K5HB79)

A better but more expensive option (~$300) is to use a Cartek GT solid state kill switch (https://rally.build/collections/rally-build-fabricated-rally-parts/products/cartek-gt-solid-state-battery-isolator-kit), much safer as you don't have to run high gauge wires through the car (see video below and check the  kill switch page):  

If you can't see the document above, the direct link is: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1q5f4InXo51GgUw4eoSUkR_jkbOEnMOeQ/view?usp=sharing 

• Jack 

  • • Use an impact gun adapter for the stock jack (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0793PJBB6) but keep in mind that the stock jack is weak and will not withstand abuse with the impact

    • ($30): Low profile double ram bottle jack/stubby bottle jack (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002RZC8WE/)

• • Spare tire tie down ($50): http://rally.build/sparco-spare-wheel-tie-down-strap/

  • Tow hook: the OEM tow hooks are usually fine, just make sure they are in place.

  • Tow strap ($12): http://www.harborfreight.com/2800-lb-capacity-2-in-x-20-ft-heavy-duty-tow-strap-61943.html 

  • Torque wrench ($11): http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-239.html

  • Stowable 4-way lug wrench ($10) : http://www.harborfreight.com/14-inch-stowable-four-way-lug-wrench-95932.html

  • Impact gun ($99): Ryobi One+ 1/2 inch impact is the cheapest impact that actually works (https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-18-Volt-ONE-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-3-Speed-1-2-in-Impact-Wrench-Kit-with-1-4-0-Ah-Battery-18-Volt-Charger-and-Bag-P1833/302648209)

  • Emergency tire inflator ($25): Ryobi P737 uses the same battery pack as the impact gun (https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-18-Volt-ONE-Cordless-Power-Inflator-Tool-Only-P737/206159256)

  • Emergency HAM radio ($30): Baofeng UV-5R+ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0097252UK

If you can, try to get basic first responder training or training in fire extinguisher usage. In case of an accident on stage and the need to quickly extract a person from a car, check the useful FIA Safety Extraction Guide, especially the section about the quick modified Rautek maneuver. 

Spares

Inevitably things will break during rallies even with the best possible prep. It is necessary to carry spares with you so that the car can be fixed at service. Here is a list of spares we carry with us:

• • wheels/tires

  • brake rotors/pads/calipers

  • cv axles front/rear (complete and/or boots)

  • ball joints

  • swaybar end links

  • control arms/spindles/knuckles/trailing arms (4 corners)

  • suspension (4 corners)

  • driveshaft

  • differential

  • clutch/transmission (if multi-day rally)

  • radiator

  • hoses (vacuum, fuel line, brake lines...)

  • fuses/relays/light bulbs/electrical wire

  • sensors (MAF, camshaft, crankshat...)

  • coil packs

Check with Wali at https://jdmracingmotors.com/en/ for great deals on spare packages.

Of course you will also need all the tools necessary for service. Check our service crew training video below:

Car reprep between events

We have a checklist of things to check between events or during long/overnight service at rallies. This makes sure that all the critical points have been checked out. The list is this Google spreadsheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1W_J6Qzcyn3-gM1T_rI3spfpWSrJIEidTGCO91UJIva8/edit?usp=sharing

For each event, we make a copy of the template in a new tab and we change to green every point that has been checked with possibly comments in the cell if some action has been taken or something has been observed (worn part, loose bolt, etc...)
There a rea also wear items that need regular servicing or replacement. Here are a few of our maintenance schedules:

• oil change: after every stage rally or track event, every other rallysprint or hillclimb (depending on number of runs)

• rear diff oil: twice a season

• transmission oil: once a season

• air filter: cleaning after every event, change as needed (usually not more than one season)

• suspension: full service once a season (see DMS page)

• lug nuts: every other season (might be earlier if excessive wear/rust)

• rust protection/underbody coating: once a season

• balljoints and outer tie rods: max 3 seasons, earlier if any play detected (regrease twice a season with sway bar endlinks if aftermarket serviceable ones are used)

Driver/Co-Driver equipment

Some safety equipment can be bought used (but it is sometimes hard to make sure that the equipment is safe and has not been involved in an incident). Some overseas companies like Demon Tweeks or Murray Motorsport have substantially lower prices on new equipment even with shipping and tax duties factored in. 

Safety gear:

• • Firesuit ($200): get a 3.2/5 Nomex suit, look at LeMons racing package deals, garage sales at SpeedWay Motors and even used ones on RacingJunk or eBay.

  • Helmet ($200): SA 2015 Helmet, try it before you buy it if you can as comfort is key. Comm integration can be a plus but usually comes at a high premium. Open face helmets are usually preferred for rallying. At the top of the line is the Stilo WRC ($800+) but we found the Sparco RJ-5i to be a good compromise with its integrated Peltor comms.

  • Head & Neck restraint ($400): Hans device is one of the most popular, lots of debate on which one offers best side protection, but the bottom line is that only the halo on the seat is going to protect you in case of a side impact. Make sure you get an FIA approved device, the certifications don't expire like SFI deviuces that need regular recertification. Check out the videos below on things to pay attention with Hans devices.

  • Shoes ($100): Fireproof racing shoes are a must have for the driver and a good protection for the co-driver too. 

  • Gloves: Fireproof gloves will give you a much better steering feel for the driver, might not be great for the codriver to turn pages of the pace notes. We like our AlpineStar Tech 1 ($80, http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Alpinestars-3551614-Tech-1-Start-Driving-Gloves,83519.html)

Intercom:

You can go with the very expensive Peltor or Stilo intercom that are widely used or go on a budget with a motorcycle intercom like this one that we have been using successfully:

• • Bluetooth motorycle intercom (~$100): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PKECGJ4

  • Motorcycle intercom ($50): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002IOI9Y

  • Color mic windscreens to differentiate easily driver/co-driver headset ($7): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004H6PC4M

Budget intercom: Sparco IS110 amplifier (~$90) that has both a 9V battery power and 12V from the car for seamless power transition. You can get headsets for open or closed face helmets for about $45 a piece at http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/intercom-headsets/sparco-headset-kit-for-is-110-intercom.

Higher end intercom: Sparco IS140 is a nice high end Peltor compatible intercom that has both a 9V battery power and 12V from the car for seamless power transition. It turns automatically on when the codriver connects his helmet. Stilo helmets will require a Stilo-Peltor cable, other helmets can use a comm kit like this one: http://www.rallynuts.com/helmet-headsets/rosso-racing-advanced-pro-open-face-headset.html 

Recce wheel:

If you need to write your own pace notes, you will need to get consistent notation for the turns. Getting a used steering wheel and adding marks to it to indicate the angle of corners is a good practice used by WRC drivers (see video below).  Check the pdf document under the video below of the page to calculate the right angles for your car.

If you can't see the document above, access it directly here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1M9kx3j6CpJr-H9Xh20U4XaXVf4B0ulUD/view?usp=sharing

RallySafe: Check the RallySafe page

ARA and select CARS events have switched to RallySafe for timing and tracking during events.  You can purchase the permanent kit from https://shop.statusas.com/shop/category/rallysafe/
The installation video for the kit is below: 

Rally computer:

We have had great success with a very simple Android tablet and some apps for both car telemetry and rally computer. Alternatively you can use a modern phone, what really matters is that you have a dual GPS/GLONASS receiver for accuracy. Note that the use of a rally computer is not really useful beyond recce when using RallySafe, since the RallySafe unit provides similar features to a rally computer.

• • 7" Android tablet with GPS ($50): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015PVT1EO

  • Garmin GLO Bluetotth GLONASS/GPS receiver ($100): https://www.amazon.com/Garmin-GLO-Bluetooth-010-02184-01-Dashboard/dp/B07NF43R6F

  • RAM mounts to secure tablet to rollcage: 

    • rollcage tie ($17): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0030HO6SM

    • tablet holder ($30): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005MFKV20

    • ball mount for tablet holder ($7): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004O8LF26

    • long arm ($18): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WJA5ZY

  • Bluetooth OBD2 for telemetry ($7): http://www.amazon.com/Version-Bluetooth-Multi-Language-12Kinds-Android/dp/B00N2K6M2A

Android apps available from the Google Play store:

• • Torque Pro to see live car data, reset Check Engine Light...: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque

  • RaceChrono for timing and telemetry recording: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.racechrono.app

  • Rally tripmeter for stage rally navigator to keep track of time and distances: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=ee.siimplangi.rallytripmeter

Video and telemetry:

Check out our dedicated pages:  Telemetry and Videos